In the winter, the Pacific Northwest can be a great place to ice climb, but water-ice conditions are fickle early in the season. The Cascades and other mountains offer big glaciers with crevasses and seracs. These areas are also great places to learn how to climb on ice. On Mount Rainier, there are many guide services that can teach you how to use the proper techniques. For those looking to do it themselves, there are also several accessible glaciers, like Coleman Glacier.
Mammoth Lakes
The International Alpine Guides is the local guide service that will take you rock climbing, ice climbing, and backcountry skiing in Mammoth Lakes. These guides are certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and are local naturalists who are ready to guide you safely through the mountains.
Whether you're a novice climber or an advanced climber, the area has plenty to offer. Ice climbing in Mammoth takes place from December to March, and the area's many one and two-pitch routes are ideal for beginners.
Keystone Canyon
The canyon was carved by the Lowe River. This river created an 800 foot deep cut that is now used for the Trans Alaska Pipeline. This cut has unique microclimate and interesting ice formations. This canyon is also great for parties, and is often crowded on weekends. If you prefer to have a more peaceful experience, you can visit during the week.
The canyon is 20 minutes outside of Valdez. During the winter, the canyon freezes over, resulting in ice hundreds of feet thick. The area is also popular for ice climbing, and the canyon has an annual climbing festival. Visitors to Valdez can also take excursions to the nearby Valdez Glacier. However, ice climbing requires the right conditions.
Mammoth Glacier
There are two very good ice climbing areas near Mammoth Lakes, California. The June Lake area is ideal for beginners, while the more advanced can move on to the more difficult Lee Vining Canyon. The area is considered one of the best in the US for ice climbing instruction and offers a variety of routes ranging from WI2 to M5. For beginners, there are plenty of one and two-pitch climbs to start out on.
The Valdez region of Alaska is often ranked as one of the best ice climbing destinations in the United States. It is home to a number of mountains and glaciers, including Mineral Creek, Solomon Gulch, Keystone Canyon, and the 17 Mile Wall. Many of the routes can be completed within a single day. Since the 1970s, the region has become a popular ice climbing destination, and a large community of climbers has developed.
Mount Bona
If you're looking for an ice climbing adventure, Mount Bona is a great place to go. This ice-covered stratovolcano is only 39 miles east of McCarthy, Alaska, and is home to the US's highest ice climb. The mountain lies at the head of the Russell Glacier, a major glacier in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park.
The park is remote, and the ice climber is forced to travel two miles to reach the first rock. The hike to the cliff is nearly a mile long, and it is hundreds of feet deep. The trip takes approximately three days to complete, but is well worth it if you're up for a challenge.
Orient Bay
The Orient Bay Corridor is considered to be one of the best ice climbing destinations in North America. Climbers from all over the world come to this region to test their skills and conquer new challenges. The walls of this region are often covered in thick pillars of ice, making it the perfect playground for experienced climbers.
The Orient Bay ice climbing area offers a diverse landscape for ice climbing. The area surrounds Lake Superior and is known for its steep pillars, resembling the Canadian Rockies. The ice is thick enough to remain frozen until early spring. Climbers can choose between two popular areas, Eagles Nest and Elora Gorge, where local instructors can demonstrate the ropes and give tips on the routes. Check out here for more popular mountains for ice climbing.
Huntington Ravine
If you are looking for a challenging climb, then Huntington Ravine in New Hampshire is worth checking out. This area is one of the best ice climbing locations in the US. This area is located on Mount Washington, New Hampshire. It is one of four major cirques on the mountain. It has the highest and steepest headwall. Climbers who want to try this challenging area should have completed an introductory ice climbing course before visiting the area. Read here about the best ice climbing location in the world.
The ice is excellent at this location, but the approaches are not ideal. Although the summer hiking trail is well-packed, the ravine is a difficult place to approach during winter. The ravine is filled with dense, wet slab debris that helps the ravine fill in and catch snow.